 |
 |
|
|
|
December, 2006
Earning Your Turns in the Backcountry
By Jon Tierney
We ski for the goods, for the speed, the first tracks, for the fun of it. It’s about getting down. But how about getting up? Earn your turns with a little uphill track and the amount of accessible terrain becomes almost limitless. Backcountry skiing and snowboarding is attracting new disciples each year as people seek out the wilderness. In the distant past, backcountry touring meant sacrificing something. – i.e. soft boots for ease of touring meant no control on the downhill, stiff boots meant bruised shins and touring was hell. Now you can have it all – ease of uphill touring with the control akin to alpine skiing on the downhill. The quality of today’s backcountry ski gear is phenomenal. Here is a glimpse of what makes it different and what to take with you on an outing.
Bindings: Two basic styles are in use. The first resembles an alpine binding but hinges under the toe to allow for freedom of touring. Reach the top and click the rigid bar beneath your boots into the heel piece and voila, you have a locked heel with all the control of a downhill ski. Fritschi, Silvretta and Naxo all make great models of these alpine touring bindings. Most of these are fully releasable bindings like alpine bindings and can be adjusted to your weight and ability. Choose the higher DIN settings if you plan on skiing super aggressive steeps where falling and having a ski release isn’t an option.
If you are looking for the ultimate in lightweight AT then there is really only one choice – Dynafit. Dynafit makes a number of two-piece alpine touring bindings that attach by pins to the boot. This allows the pivot point to be in a very efficient point at the front of the foot. This is the set up preferred by those doing big uphill days. You need a Dynafit compatible boot with this system such a Scarpa Matrix, Garmont Mega Ride or any Dynafit model. Because the boot provides the rigidity, not the binding, they can sometimes pre-release if a soft ski is excessively flexed. I have only had this happen once in over 120 days of skiing and at only 1.8 1b you can’t go wrong.
Backcountry telemarkers rejoice too. The newest evolution in binding designs now pivots at the toe like an AT binding thus relieving the strain on the foot and further improving the efficiency of free-heel tele touring. Look for the G3 Targa Ascent or Black Diamond O1 for this feature.
Boots: Today’s AT boots resemble alpine boots. They feature a more forward lean and can be set to tour (flex) mode or locked down for the trip downhill. In general, they are softer, lighter and more comfortable than a downhill boot. You still want a pretty tight fit and adding an after market insole will be worth its weight in gold. Look closely and you will see AT boots in the terrain parks and on ski patrollers – great rigidity with the flex to walk back up the hill.
Poles: Adjustable poles work well but make sure they lock themselves well enough to not collapse during a critical pole plant. Get some with rubber below the grip so you can grasp the pole lower when contouring. This keeps your body square and improves efficiency. Alternatively, wrap some string around the pole and then tape over it like you did to a hockey stick when you were a kid.
Skins: These are your tractors and they have to stay on the ski. In general, the skin should be trimmed to the ski allowing no more than a millimeter from the edge. This will give you the best edge control. Make sure your glue is good. At home, store the skins by using a skin mesh. In the field fold the skins in half with the sticky sides together. Try not to get snow on the skin when taking it off or putting it on. If you want something to do before ski season, practice putting your skins on/off without getting out of your skis in your living room.
Pack: a good ski pack is essential. You want to be able to secure your skis easily. An A-frame style works pretty well. Easy access to your shovel and probe is essential too. Most importantly, it should be compact for good control and not have too many straps to snag the trees.
Repair kit: you won’t need it often, but when you do it’s nice to have.
*
Skin wax: first, spray the skins with a little lubricant before you leave home – such as Pam. Carry some skin wax so if your skins get wet or the snow gets warm your skins won’t glop up.
*
Glide wax: The skis will be sticky after you take off the skins. A little glide wax will get you up to speed for the downhill cruising.
*
Multi-tool – pliers, knife, etc. Make sure you have the driver for ski screws.
*
Ski straps – these babies are invaluable.
*
Steel wool – big help when the screws get stripped.
*
Skin adhesive, extra tip loop, hose clamps to fit over skis, super glue, extra pole tip and basket and of course duct tape.
Rescue Sled and Bivouac Sac: The best rescue sled for backcountry skiers that I know of is the Brooks Range sled. If you don’t have the cash for this, be sure to practice sled construction with the skis and gear you plan to use before you leave home.
Jon Tierney is an internationally licensed IFMGA mountain guide and paramedic. He has been guiding and instructing ice and rock climbing , ski mountaineering, wilderness medicine and outdoor leadership since the early 1980s. He is also a lead instructor for Wilderness Medical Associates. Jon currently owns Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School and Alpenglow Adventure Sports in Orono and Bar Harbor.
Email nick [at] noumbrella [dot] com with your questions, comments and concerns.
Design and Content © 2002 to 2006 No Umbrella
