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September, 2006
Clifton Beta - a quick guide to climbing at Chick Hill.
By Jon Tierney
Driving east on 395 out of Bangor ME one is looking straight at the southeast face of Chick Hill. Known as Peaked Mountain on USGS maps, Chick Hill has been a favorite climbing area for rock climbers for the past 30 years. Today, it is especially appealing to the climber who likes the safety and simplicity of sport climbing yet occasionally wants to place a piece of gear. Like other Clifton Crags, the rock is coarse Lucerne granite - provide great friction and edgy face climbing. Chick Hill is a little lower angled than nearby Eagle Bluff or Fletcher Bluff making balance and flexibility much more important here than sheer power. There are numerous moderate routes here from 5.6 to 5.11 in difficulty. Several new easier routes (5.6 - 5.9) have been established in the past two years on the left side of the cliff and many of the harder routes are not sustained making it a good place to push your climbing ability a little farther. Most of the routes on the open faces are reasonably well-protected by modern bolts. It many cases, bolts have been added to routes since the guidebook was published making them even safer - but remember to carry a few extra quickdraws.
While sport climbs dominate, there is plenty to keep a trad climber busy as well, especially if they don't mind clipping a bolt here and there. Some of the longer climbs stretch out to three pitches and one can top out and one can scramble around the cliff back to the base. If you top out, the best descent options are to the right (east) from the top. Many of the sport climbs are fairly long (90 - 140') so be sure to bring a second rope or you may find yourself having to rappel off a single bolt anchor to get back down.
By far, the most coveted line is Overnight Sensation - a multi-pitch 5.8 stretching up superb white granite. Other favorite lines include:
5.6 My Time
5.7 Shake and Bake
5.8 Buteo and the Beast
5.9 Vacationland, Leading Colors, Coyote Crack
5.10 Vertical Sketchmaster, Circling Vultures
Directions to Chick Hill
The access trail leaves from a truck pullout on Route 9. From the junction of routes 9 and 180 point the wheels east for 3 miles. You will pass Park's Pond Campground (a good place to stay if climbing in Clifton). You can catch glimpses of both big and Little Chick Hill along the way. Big Chick is the bigger (!) more easterly cliff. As you climb the grade (it's two lanes on the uphill side), look for a large gravel pullout on the left. Park here. The trail leaves from the west end of the gravel area and is easy to follow to the base of the cliff. As you near the base there is a fork. Going left takes you to the far left end while staying straight will take more to the center. When you run into the cliff you are below Circling Vultures.
For complete information on routes and Chick Hill and other Clifton Crags consult Rock Climber's Guide to Clifton Crags.
Email nick [at] noumbrella [dot] com with your questions, comments and concerns.
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