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August, 2005
A Guide’s Life
By Jon Tierney
The profession of climbing guide might become wearisome through repetition, but the guide is more than a mere machine for climbing rock and ice slopes, for knowing the weather and the way. He does not climb for himself, he throws open the gates of his garden. The heights are a splendid setting for his work and climbing gives him a pleasure of which he never tires. Above all a guide is repaid by the pleasure of the man he guides. He knows that such a climb is particularly interesting, that at this turn the view is quite suddenly very beautiful, and that this ice ridge is delicate as lace. He says nothing of all this, but his reward is in his companion’s smile of discovery. If the guide thought to win his pleasure only from his own climbing, he would be robbed of it and soon tire of the mountains. In fact, though he may climb the same crack or the same slope five, ten, or twenty times a summer, he rejoices each time to renew its acquaintance. But his real happiness derives from a deeper pleasure, that of his kinship with the mountains and the elements, just as the peasant is akin to the soil or the workman to the materials with which he works. If the second person on the rope hesitates, the guide restores his confidence. If the storm breaks suddenly, he knows its secrets, his instinct masters it, his sense of responsibility multiplies his strength tenfold and brings his party back safely. He loves difficulty but abhors danger, which is a very different thing. Sometimes, it is true, he is killed by lightning, stone fall, or avalanche. That too is part of the job; but so long as he lives he strives to lead his rope safely. - Gaston Rebuffat
One of the most rewarding aspects of being a guide is meeting people from all walks of life. Whether we guide in the mountains, down the rivers, over the ocean or take clients in search of big fish or black bear, all guides share common bonds with their clients. Guides are hired to facilitate dreams, to provide camaraderie, to teach new skills, to show the way … the list goes on. You meet the clients at the airport in the third world. Two thirty-something professional males – friends from college days. Now their lives revolve around getting ahead in the office, keeping the wives happy, and dreaming up adventures to keep their sanity. They have been training for three months longer than I for this attempt at a big mountain summit and calling three times a week with random questions. They are incredibly fit and have become kings of the stair climber working out 3 hours a day at the local gym for months. Stairmaster monkeys! I can’t help wondering what will they be like? Will it be a pleasant three weeks or time better spent in hell? Will the weak link be one of them or me? Hints of nervousness scratch the surface of conversation and hide in the humongous mule bags filled with enough gear and food to climb Oympus Mons. Wait, I thought I said just bring your clothing, sleeping bag and climbing gear. The weeks pass quickly and as the trip ends we part as new friends.
It’s Monday morning and a family from Orlando has arrived to climb. Two teenaged children who are already fully bored only two days into the family vacation, a driven dad and a hesitant mom. What can I do with this, the guide wonders? Four hours later after a carefully crafted experience the kids can’t wait to come back, Mom’s status in the family has risen sharply as she climbs effortlessly beyond her self-imposed limits and Dad is psyched that his vacation is beginning to feel like a vacation.
Tuesday evening and an eager but shy teenager enters the shop. She doesn’t know a whole lot about climbing yet but is driven to learn. She wants adventure! She dreams of becoming an alpinist and is eager to climb. You know she would take the rope lead if you let her. A concerned mother listens as she sees her plans for her daughter’s future going up in smoke. We negotiate a happy medium.
Lately it seems there has been an increase in clients who are traveling nurses. This one just spent three months in Jackson, WY and will be moving on to the Sierras next month. Even a well-traveled guide is left a bit envious with such a schedule and an awesome pay rate. On the way home, the guide gives serious consideration to a career change. But only for a moment…
The phone rings. “Hello.” Yeah, I’ve been doing some soul searching now that I have recently retired and divorced. Will $250,000.00 get me a guide for the Seven Summits? I have never climbed before but it’s something I really think I need to do before I die.” “Okay, we can probably work with you on that! Let’s start with learning to belay.”
Wednesday. A buffed out gym rat walks in asking for asking for a day of guided 5.12 climbs. I haven’t climbed that grade for years! But after a few pitches of 5.9 crack climbing and fiddling with protective gear he’s asking for easier routes and something to drink. Maybe it’s time to head to the pub!
An experienced, middle-aged climber walks through the door looking to hire a partner for the weekend. Turns out he’s done quite a few difficult first ascents, many before we were born. Some are considered total classics. All of a sudden the guide room comes to life and everyone wants this one. Doing the same routes over, sometimes day after day, full-time guides struggle with staying on top of the game so the chance to climb at with a solid partner is highly prized. Next week I will meet a good friend and my favorite client. We have been climbing together for a dozen years. We won’t climb too hard but fun will be certain. He’s in his seventies now and has done more each day of his life than most of us do in a year. Has two national titles in vastly different sports, is full of Yoda-like wisdom, was an orthopedic surgeon and department chief for two decades. I know his family almost as well as my own. Each day we climb together I am sure that I gain the most from the day.
Guides do the same route over and over often far below their limits. Guides must make up for other’s deficiencies, but can never totally compensate. We must operate with a tighter margin for safety than we might as recreationalists. We do not have the luxury of another person to help correct a mistake in judgment.
Self reliance must be complete. Skills must be perfected and timely. Guides must often work alone – being jacks of all trades - psychologist, technician, problem solver, learner and teacher. For their efforts most guides are paid a fifth of what a tennis coach makes.
Most guides love their work. Some for only a few seasons, others for a lifetime. Some meet the love of their life in the midst of a Class V rapid while others seek love for a night. Our work takes us to some of the most spectacular places on the planet. Each new client refreshes our energy and helps keep the routes exciting. Each day teaches us a new lesson and a different set of problems. The guide’s choices and solutions have real consequence. Life matters! Decisions matter! Clients matter! Each client teaches us a little more about ourselves. And some of them even tip well! Anyway you look at it, guiding in mountains or down the rivers is a big bonus over the 9 – 5 office job. See you out there!
Email nick [at] noumbrella [dot] com with your questions, comments and concerns.
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