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July, 2005
CLIMBING 101 - THE ABC’s OF BELAYING – Setting Up Top Managed Belays
Part 2 in a series on basic climbing skills.
By Jon Tierney
B ombproof! Bombproof! The belay must be bombproof. A sound belay allows the climber to push their limits with less risk by protecting them from falling. In the early days of climbing, climber’s relied on their climbing ability as the primary source of protection. This approach is echoed today with free soloists who climb uninhibited by ropes or equipment. For the rest of us, a belay provides essential security.
A belay system consists of multiple components. The appropriate mix of anchor, positioning or stance, friction, and communication forms the foundation of a sound belay system. A belay could be as simple as passing a rope around a large, secure rock. The rock serves as the anchor, friction is created between the rope and the rock and is increased or decreased by the position of the person holding the rope end. This use of a natural feature is one example of a direct belay and is commonly used in alpine climbing.
Dropping the climber due to poor belay habits is occurring all too frequently these days. In this issue we will explore options for attaching to the master point of the anchor and belaying when on the top of a cliff.
Top Rope Belaying from the Top of a Cliff
There are several reasons that might lead you to consider setting up a top rope from the top rather than the bottom when visiting a cliff.
1. Consider the environmental impacts – if the top is a durable rock surface and the bottom pristine groundcover, it would make sense to work from the top. On the other hand, if the top is fragile lichens then have only one person go up top to set an anchor and then belaying from the bottom is far less impactful.
2. Look at the terrain – a sea cliff such as the popular Otter Cliff or a cliff over raging water such as Ripogenus Gorge may not be conducive to bottom belaying unless you are a fish. Also consider the ease of access.
3. Safety – If there is loose rock on the climb then a top side belay would be wise. In some areas people may mess with or even steal your gear from the top if you are out of sight on the bottom.
Tips for setting up top rope belay systems
In climbing there are three basic belay systems that are used. These are a direct belay, an indirect belay and a redirected belay. Direct belays are preferred when belaying from above the climber as in belaying from the top of a cliff or when belaying a person who is following a lead climber. The redirected belay is very familiar to climbers and is most frequently used when the belayer is belaying from below such as the base of a cliff or at a climbing gym. An indirect belay is preferred when belaying a lead climber or when the anchor quality is sketchy.
The Direct Belay
In the direct belay, the belay tool (Munter Hitch, self locking belay devices, or belay plate) is attached directly to the anchor so that the anchor is bearing 100% of the climber load. The belayer may or may not be placing any additional weight onto the anchor. A direct belay is preferred when the master point is above the climber such as when belaying on the top of a cliff. The primary benefits of the direct belay are: it is easy to understand and set up, the belayer is more comfortable and far less likely to be pulled in an unexpected way (a happy belayer is a safer belayer), and escaping the belay (should a problem arise) is simple.
The simplest way to set up a direct belay is to fix the end of the climbing rope to the power point with a loop knot such as a figure 8 on a bight. Next decide where you, as the belayer, would like to position yourself to belay and tie a second figure 8 on a bight at that point. Clip yourself into this loop using a locking carabiner to your belay loop on your harness. Now place the belay device into the same loop you clipped your harness to (Not into your belay loop!) and you are ready to belay. As in all belaying with a belay plate, it is important that the brake hand be on the same side of the body as the anchor rope.
A direct belay may also be applied to the bottom end of a redirected belay setup if belaying from the base of the cliff.
Direct belay using Munter Hitch. Instructor
is clipped into the backside of the figure 8 on
a bight. Here, the master point has been
extended forward with the rope.
Modifications to a Direct Belay
If you are comfortable using a Munter Hitch or a so called self-locking device such as a Petzl Grigri or Trango Cinch then a couple quick modifications are suggested to the above. Again fix the end of the rope and extend the master point to where you would like it to be and tie a second loop knot. This second loop can be positioned well back from the edge. You can then secure yourself to the backside of that knot (loose side) with a clove hitch or another figure eight knot.
The Munter Hitch provides the greatest versatility of all belay devices for top belays. It even provides a slightly greater amount of friction than a belay plate. It travels easily in two directions allowing the belayer to take in rope or to lower a person. And it can be managed from a distance. Because it is controlled from in front of the master point it may be placed well back from the edge and the
belayer can move to the edge to see the climber without concern for being pulled over the edge. The major disadvantage of the Munter Hitch is that it sometimes kinks the rope. This kinking can be minimized by feeding the rope through
carabiners in a loose manner – almost like you are trying to push the rope through and keeping the two rope strands parallel.
If you are able to change from lowering your partner with a Munter Hitch to belaying them up with a self locking device you will have the best of both worlds and rescue procedures will be greatly simplified should your partner need a little assistance on the climb.
The Indirect Belay
The indirect belay has been popular for years as the primary belay set-up. An indirect belay has the belayer anchored and the belay device being attached to the belay loop of a harness. The forces travel to the anchor through the belayer thus the indirect name. In reality, and particularly for newer climbers, this method is best reserved for belaying a lead climber. Advanced climbers should also use an indirect belay when the anchor points are less than 100% reliable as part of the load may be shifted to the belayer’s stance. For top roping, the indirect belay has several disadvantages – the biggest ones being that the belayer’s leg is often pinned in a compromising position and the belay escape is far more difficult. If an indirect belay is used it is critical that the ABC’s, Anchor, Belayer and Climber be in a straight line and that the belayer is taut to the anchor.
In the next issue we will discuss basic principles of self-rescue and raising systems for top roping.
This article should not be a substitute for proper instruction from a qualified guide. If you are a climber and these systems don’t make sense to you, seek instruction!
Jon Tierney has been climbing since the mid 1970s and guiding for two decades. He is the author of the newly created American Mountain Guide’s Association national standard curriculum for teaching top rope climbing instructors and is an AMGA certified rock and alpine guide. Jon is the owner of Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School and he also instructs courses for Wilderness Medical Associates.
Email nick [at] noumbrella [dot] com with your questions, comments and concerns.
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