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July, 2005
CLASSIC ROCK
Rock Climbing in Acadia and Clifton
By Jon Tierney
The east coast has some of the best cragging in the US, and a respectable number of beautiful lines are found right here in Maine. Many things attract climbers to Maine cliffs. If you want to escape the crowds common to New Hampshire and the Shawangunks, Maine is the place to be. Some would go so far as to say it’s the way climbing, if not life itself, should be. Several crags lie hidden in the forests while others are the first places in North America to receive the morning sun.
Otter Cliff of Acadia National Park is probably Maine’s number one climbing destination. With striking granite sea cliffs, ridiculously easy access, classic lines, and a perpetual cool breeze to keep the bugs away it’s easy to see why. Pumped? Kick back and enjoy the ocean side views or stroll down the shore to Sand Beach sampling clean coastal bouldering along the way. Many a first timer has touched their fingertips on the salty granite walls overlooking the Atlantic. Given that Otter is a sea cliff, access to the bottom is difficult and tide dependant. It is usually best to plan on setting up your belays from the top (check out the belay article). The majority of climbs are in the 5.6 – 5.10 range and average 45 – 65’ in length. Most anchors require gear to easily set up although a climber who is good at sniffing out natural anchors such as flakes and blocks would find themselves able to do about 75% of the routes. Do remember that the use of trees at Otter Cliff is prohibited. And even though we love our furry friends, dogs don’t really belong here either, as they both dig up the fragile cliff top soil and often get tied to the trees that are in various stages of being killed by overuse. The terrain here is steep and somewhat intimidating but once you get on the rock you will find plenty to hold on to. It’s fun! Expect to see others and perhaps have to wait for a climb. On most days, you will find one of the local guides working who are usually happy to give you some beta if needed. If you need a whole lot of beta, like how to belay from the top or build an anchor, consider hiring one. Looking to get a little higher off the ground in Acadia? The South Wall of Champlain Mountain is just off the park Loop Road and is home to some very nice 2 and 3 pitch lines in the 5.6 to 5.12a range with a great selection of moderate routes. Top roping here is limited unless you can lead. The pink granite is clean, has a high degree of friction and forms elegant crack lines. Old Town is a classic one pitch 5.7 dihedral up clean granite rock. Continue above into the Return To Forever corner which goes at 5.9. Emigrant Crack is a must do 5.10.
The South Wall won’t be as crowded as Otter, but you will likely see other climbers. For best results, bring medium sized cams and stoppers, and tricams are helpful too. Traditional ethics prevail in Acadia and you will find sport climbs to be few and far between. But not to fear, monkeys! Less than an hour away is Clifton – home to some of the best sport climbing in Maine. Tucked away in the hills 15 minutes east of Bangor lie several bluffs made of gray / white Lucerne granite. The granite is coarse grained, offering excellent friction. I always have found it amazing how steep some of the climbs are yet the abundance of crimpy edges always seem to reveal a route. The best climbing is in late summer and fall. Eagle Bluff offers steep, sweeping lines up clean faces that are generally well protected with bolts and an occasional piece of gear. The guidebook does a pretty good job of letting you know what gear is needed in addition to the bolts. Top ropers can get in on the action on the Practice Wall where several 60 – 80’ face and crack climbs abound.
Travel further east on Route 9 and two rounded domes appear on the horizon. No, you are not in Toulomne Meadows. You are looking at Big and Little Chick Hill (Peaked Mountain on the map). Big Chick, with the tower on top, has seen some new development in the past year on the left end with several nice moderate routes being added to an already nice bag of tricks. High on the list of my favorites is Overnight Sensation (5.8), a two pitch route near the center. The edges get a little smaller on Smitty’s Red Bag, a balancy 5.10 that is best handled with flexible slippers on your feet. A great feel good 5.11, Maine Line, shoots up the right side of the main face. It is well protected and easy for its grade.
If you decide to make the trip to Acadia or Clifton look up a local and most of us will be happy to show you our secret areas or the latest problem.
Getting There
From the village green in Bar Harbor, take Route 3 south to Otter Cliff Road on the left. Follow this until the T intersection with the Park Loop Road and take a right. The next parking lot is the one you want. To reach the South Wall, again take route 3 south. Shortly after passing Jackson Lab, look for signs directing you to the Park Loop Road. Get onto the one-way Loop Road and follow this to the Precipice Parking Lot. Park here and walk about 200 yards further down the road where a sandy trail leaves the road on the right and will take you to the cliff. You will first come to a lower cliff with a few routes. Continue past this and up the talus to the main face.
Eagle Bluff trailhead is located 2.6 miles down route 180 from the intersection with route 9. Chick Hill trailhead is located on Route 9, 4.3 miles east of the 180/9 intersection. Climber trails lead directly to the cliffs in 10-15 minutes.
Gear, Beta, Guides
One stop shopping at Acadia Mountain Guides / Alpenglow Adventure Sports, (198 Main Street, Route 3, Bar Harbor) will get you guidebooks, gear, route beta, and/or instruction. They also guide in Clifton have a second store in Orono along with a small climber hostel where you can stay. (AcadiaMountainGuides.com) Cadillac Mountain Sports also sells gear and Atlantic Climbing offers instruction in Bar Harbor. Both are located on Cottage Street. The best guidebooks are: Rock Climber’s Guide to Clifton Crags (Tierney, 2000) and Acadia, A Climber’s Guide, (Butterfield, 2003), and Rock Climbing in Acadia National Park, Warner. An updated appendix with new routes in Clifton is available at Alpenglow Adventure Sports in Orono.
Jon Tierney has been climbing since the mid 1970s and guiding for two decades. He is the author of the newly created American Mountain Guide’s Association national standard curriculum for teaching top rope climbing instructors and is an AMGA certified rock and alpine guide. Jon is the owner of Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School and he also instructs courses for Wilderness Medical Associates.
Email nick [at] noumbrella [dot] com with your questions, comments and concerns.
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