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May/June, 2005
Shop Talk for Raft Guides:
A Discussion with Harold Herschlag on the new Whitewater Guide PFD rules for 2005.
Interview By Kristen Kaiser
Harold Herschlag is a 15-year Maine rafting guide with paddling experience on over 100 rivers and creeks all over the world. He trains new raft guides and also teaches Swift Water Rescue courses. Today we talk to him about some of the proposed rule changes for Maine whitewater rafting guides in 2005. [Note: it is widely expected these rule changes will go into effect this summer, but as of press time, they had not yet been ratified by the proper authorities in the state.]
What was wrong with the PFD regulation in Maine? …I personally know quite a few people whose philosophy is more buoyancy the better.
They are right. As a general rule, buoyancy, or flotation, is great. I have spent a lot of time under water, and for the most part, it sucks. Of course it’s all a matter of balance, otherwise people would paddle with rafts strapped to their backs.
When the original rules were drafted, there was a very limited selection of vests available, and the rules were designed to assure that guides wore appropriate gear. The sport has grown, as has the selection of appropriate gear. Unfortunately, along with flotation comes bulk, which can interfere with effective guiding and aggressive swimming. Most Maine guides currently use some version of the Extrasport High Float at 27 lbs, or the Extrasport B-22, with 22 lbs flotation. Currently, most available whitewater PFD’s have between 16-18 lbs. I have researched the matter, and as far as I can tell, there has never been a drowning attributable to the amount of flotation in a well-maintained, properly adjusted, Coast Guard-approved vest. The amount of flotation you need depends on your body composition, fitness, and swimming ability. If your first reaction when you come out of a raft is to roll on your back and put your feet up, getting a high flotation vest may be a good choice. If you are already swimming for the boat before you surface, a lower profile vest might be a good choice.
If you guide in Maine, you run the risk of a long, cold, high volume swim. If you aren’t sure how much flotation you need, try swimming the Alleyway in a High Float or rafting vest. Then picture the exact same swim with more time under water.
How and why was the PFD regulation changed?
I don’t know all the technicalities behind a regulation change. Whitewater Warden Michelle Belanger was actually largely behind this change. Production of PFD’s is based on market demand. The demand for high floatation vests is dwindling, and there is a limited color selection as well as design selection. This was making it difficult for guides to find appropriate, legal vests. It also made the industry rely heavily on Extrasport to keep making vests that meet our requirements.
One of the good things about having a whitewater specialist like Michelle, is that she is genuinely concerned with doing a good job, and seeks input from the industry. I know that a bunch of folks put their two cents in. I did my best to put three cents in.
What kind of vests are suitable now? What are prices running for these days? So many choices now, shopping is fun again.
I don’t know the exact wording of the new rule, but basically any type III or V designed for whitewater [“with at least 16 pounds
of flotation”], and Coast Guard approved is ok. The rest of the rafting world does this, and it seems to work. [Note: the old rule was a Type V flotation with 22 lbs. flotation or an equivalent Type III].
While the big issue this season is flotation, the single most important factor is fit. The PFD should stay snug, and not ride up even during violent or aggressive swims. PFD’s come in almost as many designs as there are body types. If you are a woman, a female specific vest, such as the Lola, might fit you best. In fact, even if you are a guy, it might fit you best, but how many guys are secure enough to wear a PFD designed for a woman? I have seen some very dedicated guides develop a beer belly to give the bottom strap on the vest something to secure under. This can be a very effective way to prevent a vest from riding up, but requires a high degree of commitment.
PFD’s come in a wide variety of designs: slab and panel, front zip, side zip, and pull over. One of the key features to look for in a vest, (or in a raft guide for that matter) is strong shoulders. Check out the stitching and reinforcement, if any. If you are in trouble, chances are good that whoever is helping you is going to grab you by your shoulder straps. I have actually saved a shoulder strap from a nasty swim by pulling it into a raft, leaving the swimmer in the water.
High floats and B-22’s (and their rescue versions) are well made, proven, river tools. In a long swim, they will keep your head farther out of the water than most other vests. Just because you can buy a vest with less flotation, doesn’t mean you should.
If you guide in Maine, you run the risk of a long, cold, high volume swim. If you aren’t sure how much flotation you need, try swimming the Alleyway in a High Float or rafting vest. Having 5-10 lbs less flotation will definitely result in more down time.
A word on Rescue vests. If you are planning on using a rescue vest, take a rescue class, then practice, and stay current. While they are excellent tools, even proper use of a rescue vest can be hazardous. Basically, the more straps, buckles and attachment points on a vest, the more likely you are to become strapped, buckled, or attached to something you don’t want.
As far as Maine guiding goes, is red now considered too close to the orange customer vest?
Yes. Even if it is a totally different shape and design, has rescue harness on the outside and somebody who is obviously a raft guide on the inside. I believe the idea is that in the event of an emergency, it’s easy to identify who is in charge. In my humble opinion, if you need the color of your vest to show you’re in charge, you probably aren't in charge. [Note: the new rule states: “Life jackets worn by guides shall contrast in color with those worn by other passengers to such a degree that guides are easily recognized as such by all trip participants. The color contrast between solid red and solid orange is not significant and the two colors do not provide a legal contrast.”]
What’s the low-down on knives, biners, whistles?
Whistles: The zippers on front zip vests tend to unzip. In fact, that’s half their job. Tying a whistle to a zipper probably isn’t the best way to help the zipper stay up. Around a shoulder, or to an attachment point is probably a better idea.
Carabineers: Technically speaking, the guide does not need to carry a carabiner, t
he boat does. Regardless, they are good tools to carry. Generally speaking, unlocked biners on the outside of your vest are a bad idea. I have seen a guide clipped to the outside line of a raft. This is good for the raft, in that the guide acts as a bumper, reducing wear and tear on the raft, but tends to be unpleasant for the guide. Most PFDs have pockets, which are good places to store things.
Knives: For some reason, most river specific knives fall out of their sheaths. The most popular knife, the river shorty by Gerber has no retention clip at all… Some dive knives have great locking mechanisms, but they tend to be heavy and bulky.
As a side note, would you recommend any particular dog vest?
NRS sells the Canine Flotation Device. My dogs seem to like them, and they are well made with a good, sold, grab handle.
Anything else you’d like to tell the kids before we sign off?
Guiding should be fun. If you’re not having fun, you're doing it wrong.
Email nick [at] noumbrella [dot] com with your questions, comments and concerns.
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